Food's Own Country!

First post on Blogger. Has to be on Kerala, my homestate. Has to be about food. “The Land of Spices”, Kerala, is every food lover’s paradise. Any person who has ever been here can testify my statement. Kerala cuisine is as distinct and varied as it can be. Both meat-lovers as well as vegetarians are equally satiated and contented. It has a little bit, no, a lot for every person.

The most iconic of images that represent Kerala would be that of swaying coconut trees at the river's edge silently watching the canoes as they gently float by. Every part of the tree and its fruit is made use of in every way possible. Our love for coconuts is so profound that we find a way of seeping it into most of our dishes. Consequently, coconut kernel, (sliced or grated) coconut cream and coconut milk are widely used in dishes for thickening and flavouring. Most importantly, almost all the dishes use coconut oil for cooking purposes. Tender coconut water is a refreshing nutritious thirst quencher. Try out adding grated coconut in even a fried egg, perhaps. It elevates the taste to another level, trust me.

The staple and favourite diet of any Malayalee, would be choru (rice) and kappa (tapioca). Ponni, kuruva and matta are a few varieties of rice used in Kerala. Matta ari, popularly known as “Kerala rice” outside of the state, part of the husk is left on the rice, giving it a distinctive red hue. The rice is served alongside various Kootan(curry), upperi (cooked veggies) , acharu (spicy pickles) made from any vegetable or meat/fish you can lay on hands on. It paints a picture of a typical lunch, maybe accompanied by a fish curry or fry. Our love for seafood and the extensive use of it links us to the Bengali culture, as well (apart from Communism, that is). Any dish cannot do without a sprinkle of curry leaves, which gives it a distinct aroma.

 We put to good use whatever the land offers and the result is a marvellous cuisine that is simple yet palate tickling. We relish equally a dish as simple as 'kanji' (rice gruel) and payaru(cooked pulses), or as extravagant as the 'sadya' (feast).

A Sadya is a sumptuous buffet served on a long plantain leaf which is placed towards the left side of the person eating it. An elaborate dish, which is a totally extravagant vegetarian affair, is especially served during special occasions and festivals. It includes an array of dishes like sambar, parippukari with ghee, pachadi, kichadi, avial, puliyan, kuttukari, kalan, olan, injikkari, rasam, pappadam, raw plantain and jaggery fries, pickle, buttermilk and payasam. There is also a particular order in which the dishes are eaten. I would have to dedicate a whole article altogether, to describe in detail the preparation and relevance of each of the dishes served. Yet, I can’t resist myself from proudly rambling about a few of the dishes. Avial, an all-time favourite, is a happy blend of vegetables, coconut paste and green chillies. The feast begins with the serving of Parippu, a liquid curry made of small gram and ghee and is finished off with Payasam, normally of two kinds – one made with milk and sugar and the other with banana/jack fruit/lentils and jaggery. The crunchy papadam, banana and jackfruit chips can give French-fries a run for their money, any day.

Known for its production of “Black Gold” or black pepper, it wasn’t long before Kerala attracted European colonial powers. Vasco da Gama and the Portuguese arrived first, hungry for the region’s black pepper and bringing with them the red chilli pepper that recently had been discovered in the Americas. The Dutch followed in 1598, and the British assumed control at the end of the 18th century. Kerala had also been frequently visited by maritime traders from Greece, Rome, the eastern Mediterranean, Arab countries, China and the Europe.  European influence is reflected in the numerous bakeries selling cakes, cream horns, and Western-style yeast-leavened bread, and in Anglo-Indian cuisine. The import of potatoes, tomatoes, and chilli peppers from the Americas led to their enthusiastic use in Kerala. Tamilian influence is seen in the popularity of rasam, sambar, idli and dosa.

So, the cuisine is heavily influenced by the foreign palate which has over the years been adapted to the Kerala tastes. For instance, sambhar is not a local dish; Kerala made it its own by adding grated coconut which is fried along with other spices. There is another famous variant to the curry, called Ulli sambhar which is made by using small red onions. In addition to historical diversity, the cultural influences, particularly the large percentage of Muslim and Syrian Christian population have also contributed unique dishes and styles to Kerala cuisine, especially non-vegetarian dishes. These influences can be traced in the various delicacies that are special to the state.

The preparation of each dish may vary with the region, so there is no one standard way of preparing a dish. Each regions boasts of having speciality dishes of its own. While many ingredients are the same, preparations vary. So, I strongly recommend every foodie out there to embark on a culinary journey to the state which can be roughly divided into three gastronomic regions along its 360-mile length.

The food in northern Kerala, or ‘Malabar’ while drawing on a variety of foreign influences, is entirely local, enlivened by the spices the region is famous for. It is particularly famous for its Dum Biriyani. Biryani is an exotic dish of Mughal origin, but this variant is an indigenous recipe of Malabar. It becomes a symbol of the cultural amalgamation of Mughal and Malabari cuisines. There are two varieties of it- Thalassery biriyani and the Kozhikoden biriyani. I am very partial towards the latter, not only because I hail from Calicut, but also because of the distinct taste that you only get when prepared authentically by Muslims of the region. No kidding there. I can testify for that, with my rich biriyani-eating experience to my aide, that it acquires the perfect flavour only when cooked by Muslims. Sachin Menon

, a native of the city and an avid biriyani fan adds, “It’s like all that you want in a plate. It is, possibly, the best biriyani in the whole wide world. The perfect accompaniments to it are a simple salad with curd and onion, coconut and green chilly chutney and a sweet & spicy date pickle.” Mapila(Islam-influenced) way of preparation is widely popular there- Arikadukka, Chattipathiri, Aripathiri, Pazhamnirachathu, Unnakai  to name a few. Sherin Musthafa, owner of the popular restaurant Zains in Calicut, says, “I love cooking and feeding people. It gives me immense happiness; cooking food which reflects my culture. The Mapila food is what my hotel is famous for. These are in great demand, especially during the month of Ramadan.” Kozhikoden Halwa and Kaya Varuthathu(crispy raw banana wafers) have become synonymous with the city’s name. Shawarma, an Arabian street snack has also found its way into people’s appetite here. The rubbery yet flaky Porotta, with its classic combination of beef curry has also been heralded, quite funnily, as the “National Food of Kerala”.

 On the other hand, the ‘Travancore region’ is heavily inspired by the Syrian Christian culture. The widely reputed appams, meat stew (the yummy and rich spicy coconut milk concoction), fish molly and idiayappam are real treats the place has to offer. One of the must-haves is the most delicious Karimeen Pollichathu(marinated Pearl spot fish wrapped in banana leaf and grilled). It is a “star” dish for which houseboats in Kumarakom are famed for. The Mappas curry (prepared with any kind of meat/fish), kappa biriyani and Konju varathathu(Prawns fry) are great specialities too. Lip-smacking preparation of the duck meat is almost exclusive to this area. Because of the Western influence, bakeries and patisseries are growing in number, particularly in the urbanised town of Kochi. Although, we do enjoy Indo-Chinese, North Indian and other foreign cuisines, a breakfast consisting of Puttu(steamed rice cakes) and Kadala curry(Black Chickpeas) would set any ‘Mallu’ off. “It is a made-for-each-other combo”, says Rohini Krishnan, who loves to devour this yummy dish. Fort Cochin is a salient haven which brags about its Jewish and Anglo-Indian settlement, with many such eateries. A mix of old houses built by the Portuguese, Dutch and British in colonial periods line the streets of Fort Kochi. Influence of these cuisines is evident in the food here.

Courtesy: Pranav Ashok

Thattukadas(street food eatery) are awesome food havens. If you’ve been to Kerala, you can’t help but notice these thattukadas where porottas and omplates (omlette) are made, and I should say that sight itself is appetizing! Arvind Ravikumar, a college student says, “I survive on thattu food. My favorites are squid curry, kappa and meen curry(tapioca and fish curry) and beef curry with porotta. Yet another delight is the thattu dosha and garlic chutney. It is the best place for youngsters like me because it is cheap, affordable and delectable, all at the same time”. The Kallu Shaaps (Toddy shops) are also acclaimed for serving spicy and rustic dishes like Kozhi(chicken)/beef ularthiyathu and varatiyathu (dry preparation), and yummy seafood dishes to have along with the local kallu(toddy). Though not easily accessible to women, be sure to try these out if you can coax your brother or boyfriend to buy these for you. Pazhampori (sweet banana fritters) and the “one-meter tea”( the connoisseur of the Chaaya kada(tea stall) pours the frothy beverage from a meter height without spilling), is one that is worthy of being a strong rival against any exotic tea. 

Kerala food is comfort food rather than a gourmet meal. Though, trial and error runs are attempted as part of ‘fusion food’, it is the rustic and authentic flavour which keeps people asking for more. Constant bickering is a given during nights when my mother forces us to eat kanji, yet a bowl of it can instantly make me feel better when I’m under the weather. This was rather a difficult piece for me to write as it was making my mouth water, literally, at just the mention of food from my homeland. I had to take short pauses to gratify my hunger.

There’s a tradition around religious holidays and feast days in Kerala called pakarcha, which means “sharing.” It involves taking food to someone of a different faith so that neighbours and friends share their special dishes on important days. A dish made for a Hindu holiday is brought to a Muslim friend; a dish from a Christmas table is brought to a Hindu neighbour. I used to enthusiastically give payasam and other dishes to my Muslim neighbour on Onam and Vishu, and eagerly await for their Nombu thura (fast-breaking during Ramzan) snacks and biriyani on Eid. One of the most scrumptious cuisines in the world (of course, I’ll be partial but it’s true),it is as mind-bogglingly varied as its many communities, each which still maintain their distinct identity while living harmoniously (well, most of the time).